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05/07/2019
FvSpee
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FvSpee
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35
Caution, Hot!
In my commentary on Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert and in my blog "Berliner Duftspaziergänge Folge 6" I wrote a few words about Bulgari's series of tea colours. Here I would like to summarise once again that Bulgari - stretched over years and decades respectively - commissioned five very different perfumers to develop something on the subject of "tea", each for one colour: white, black and green for the corresponding tea varieties, red for redbush tea and blue for oolong. Three of the five, including this one, are to be discontinued this year, and I'm really glad that I've secured another bottle of it.
What my three precommentators have written about this fragrance is all right; and yet I would like to contradict on one point - or at least bring a new aspect into play. For me this blue tea is not (only) a calming, meditative scent, but (rather) incredibly exciting and exciting! Tea scents are often very beautiful, but somehow mild, gentle, fresh and nice, which I don't want to say about this one. And if the "coolness", which this blue tea (perhaps also because it is a refreshing summer scent and because of the bottle reminiscent of fogged up ice) is said to have also its justification, then I find it first of all really hot!
I find the scents rather unconventionally arranged, and yet they result in a wonderful dynamic unity. First of all (and I would also like to disagree if it is said here occasionally that one hardly feels the tea): The smoky Oolong tea, standing between black and green tea, has bitterly bitter and fresh notes: Therefore it stands absolutely rightly in the name and in the centre of the fragrance! It can be clearly felt in both aspects and the other notes are congenially grouped around it and dock, so to speak, at both ends of the oolong scent. The iris with its astringency (I hardly notice the "powdery" aspect here) and the lavender with its oscillation between flower freshness and earthy bitterness, the almost citric fresh shiso leaf and the flowery, but not too sweet, but also rather serious violet. It's all just perfect. And, as already mentioned before, here not only the nose is served, but also the head: blue flowers (lavender, violet...) belong to a blue tea as well, of course.
So we have here a very, very special tea smell, very blue, very fresh and at the same time in a striking (almost strict) way tart and (quite pleasantly) bitter. In spite of its Cologne character and the moderate (but by no means minimalistic) durability and sillage associated with it, the fragrance definitely appears pithy and full of substance. And although he has three quarters female fans in all the statistics here, I find him quite masculine. A friend of mine, who is very gender-conservative with fragrances and doesn't like feminine fragrances on me, found this one to be a real hit with her.
In short: people (especially boys), save the remaining stock!
Addendum to the bottle: "Aesthetically, I'm not quite as enthusiastic about the container as many people here are, but functionally, I am. I may never have used a great sprayer like this before.
Addendum on the perfumer: The (German) perfumer Daniela Andrier is not one of the names that are repeatedly discussed here as top perfumers, but she is listed at EssenceVitae with 138 (!) fragrances, which upgrade an average rating of 7.8 after all. She is not only responsible for dozens of fragrances, even entire collections, by Prada and Bulgari, but also some fragrances by Yves Saint Laurent, Ermengildo Zegna and Bottega Veneta, as well as the famous Angélique Noire by Guerlain and a fragrance by each of the niche suppliers Etat Libre d'Orange and Maison Margiela. If I say that Marie Le Fèbvre just told the FAZ that it took her 10 years to develop "Dark Vanilla"... But well, the master will have worked in the time also on other projects parallel. Anyway, I hope Mrs Andrier has good contracts, preferably with a sales commission on the fragrances she designs. Then she should be well taken care of..
What my three precommentators have written about this fragrance is all right; and yet I would like to contradict on one point - or at least bring a new aspect into play. For me this blue tea is not (only) a calming, meditative scent, but (rather) incredibly exciting and exciting! Tea scents are often very beautiful, but somehow mild, gentle, fresh and nice, which I don't want to say about this one. And if the "coolness", which this blue tea (perhaps also because it is a refreshing summer scent and because of the bottle reminiscent of fogged up ice) is said to have also its justification, then I find it first of all really hot!
I find the scents rather unconventionally arranged, and yet they result in a wonderful dynamic unity. First of all (and I would also like to disagree if it is said here occasionally that one hardly feels the tea): The smoky Oolong tea, standing between black and green tea, has bitterly bitter and fresh notes: Therefore it stands absolutely rightly in the name and in the centre of the fragrance! It can be clearly felt in both aspects and the other notes are congenially grouped around it and dock, so to speak, at both ends of the oolong scent. The iris with its astringency (I hardly notice the "powdery" aspect here) and the lavender with its oscillation between flower freshness and earthy bitterness, the almost citric fresh shiso leaf and the flowery, but not too sweet, but also rather serious violet. It's all just perfect. And, as already mentioned before, here not only the nose is served, but also the head: blue flowers (lavender, violet...) belong to a blue tea as well, of course.
So we have here a very, very special tea smell, very blue, very fresh and at the same time in a striking (almost strict) way tart and (quite pleasantly) bitter. In spite of its Cologne character and the moderate (but by no means minimalistic) durability and sillage associated with it, the fragrance definitely appears pithy and full of substance. And although he has three quarters female fans in all the statistics here, I find him quite masculine. A friend of mine, who is very gender-conservative with fragrances and doesn't like feminine fragrances on me, found this one to be a real hit with her.
In short: people (especially boys), save the remaining stock!
Addendum to the bottle: "Aesthetically, I'm not quite as enthusiastic about the container as many people here are, but functionally, I am. I may never have used a great sprayer like this before.
Addendum on the perfumer: The (German) perfumer Daniela Andrier is not one of the names that are repeatedly discussed here as top perfumers, but she is listed at EssenceVitae with 138 (!) fragrances, which upgrade an average rating of 7.8 after all. She is not only responsible for dozens of fragrances, even entire collections, by Prada and Bulgari, but also some fragrances by Yves Saint Laurent, Ermengildo Zegna and Bottega Veneta, as well as the famous Angélique Noire by Guerlain and a fragrance by each of the niche suppliers Etat Libre d'Orange and Maison Margiela. If I say that Marie Le Fèbvre just told the FAZ that it took her 10 years to develop "Dark Vanilla"... But well, the master will have worked in the time also on other projects parallel. Anyway, I hope Mrs Andrier has good contracts, preferably with a sales commission on the fragrances she designs. Then she should be well taken care of..
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