Farneon

Amazing: I got 100 ml of this fragrance for just 6 euros (!) at Notino, and only because I had to add a few bucks for free shipping. And then this EDT "made in France" actually comes from Grasse, the perfume capital of the world.

I was extremely surprised once again by what I smelled. I'm not really a big fan of aquatic fragrances, as they all too often seem synthetic, salty and/or stale to my nose, although the basic principle is clear: aquatics are fresh without being citrusy and have the water, i.e. the supposed sea breeze, in their name.

So I approach the matter with an open mind and realize: "Acqua | Jeanne en Provence" is something like the blueprint or prototype of aquatic fragrances for me, because that's exactly how I imagine such a titled "little water". From my memory, I can understand the similarities to "Kenzo pour Homme (Eau de Toilette) | Kenzo" (which I once had). The amazing thing: Longevity and sillage are really not bad at all for a fresh fragrance in this dumpin price range.

I hear a linear, pleasant freshness with rosy notes, ethereal components of pine and cypress and very light swimming pool vibes. It's simply well done, in no way synthetic and perfect for the summer if you want to get by without lemon, bergamot and the like. Completely amazed and pleasantly surprised, this cheap home fragrance gets a full 9 points from me!

I have to admit that I only own one fragrance twin of "Jil Sander Man (1989) / Feeling Man (Eau de Toilette) | Jil Sander", but it blows me away! :-) It's been out of production for a long time, this incredibly good fragrance experience to my nose. Aniseed, tarragon and moss were extremely popular notes in the 1990s and were often accompanied by a soft leathery-tobacco-like accord, underpinned by a minimal sweetness. That was great olfactory cinema in my nose and I have fond memories of it - especially of Jil Sander Man, but also of Lagerfeld Photo, Bogner Man or Davidoff Relax, without these perfumes all smelling the same.

Given the multitude of ingredients, it is of course extremely difficult to pin down "Jil Sander Man (1989) / Feeling Man (Eau de Toilette) | Jil Sander" to a single ingredient, but that is precisely what I like about this ingenious perfume art: creating something that does not directly remind me of something, but confronts me with something completely new. Many "perfumos" regularly rejoice when the Christmas market calls, the confectioner invites you in, the spice bazaar beckons or the tobacco store opens. I'm definitely not one of them!

As I said, I "only" own a fragrance twin, but I am delighted that it exists and that it matches my memory 100 percent. This fragrance exudes a balsamic freshness right from the start, which is joined by a magnificent bouquet of flowers and fruits, accompanied by a green-spicy base and a very subtle sweetness. It does not aim to go to any extremes just to stand out (sometimes unpleasantly) from the crowd. "Jil Sander Man (1989) / Feeling Man (Eau de Toilette) | Jil Sander" is so original and at the same time harmonious that I would still choose it as my signature fragrance today because it is always wearable and suitable for every season.

What do you read and hear on the net about "Kalan | Parfums de Marly"? Red flacon equals aggressiveness, even Ferrari is mentioned. Biting pepper bores into the nose. Baccarat Rouge 540 would have been a steal. Even the dentist is mentioned. Headaches are the result, etc. All pure nonsense, if you ask me, but of course: as always, a matter of taste. Nevertheless, I would go so far as to say that the slating of this fragrance by some self-proclaimed influencers has contributed to Kalan's poor to mediocre image.

Opinions are divided on this fragrance, which I can only halfway understand. After all, Pagasus, Layton and Carlisle aficionados are likely to be attracted to Kalan, as it also has an original aromatic superstructure over a sweet, creamy foundation.

We are dealing here with a ripe, aromatically spiced blood orange, which is joined by sweet orange blossom. The slightly nutty, roasted tonka bean also comes through right from the start. Together, this results in a unique fragrance composition that follows the aforementioned "Marly principle". It's no wonder that the most popular Marlys always seem to me to have two layers, like a sweet pastry with a spicy, fruity topping.

The top note of Kalan appeals to me directly, because I've never smelled anything like it before. However, apart from the "wow effect" in my nose, I find it difficult to categorize this impression. I simply can't think of any occasion or situation that I would automatically associate with "Kalan | Parfums de Marly". A pity for the reader on the one hand, but not a tragedy on the other, as I can wear the fragrance whenever I feel like it.

The first impression is (fortunately, I think) consistent throughout the entire fragrance, although freshness and spiciness naturally weaken somewhat in favor of creaminess and sweetness. H/S are beyond any doubt.

No question: Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud is one of the most recognized perfumers in the world and has (also for me) set some milestones in fragrance development, especially in the field of fresh and everyday fragrances. He has been the exclusive in-house perfumer at Louis Vuitton for over ten years now and has been working like an assembly line ever since. He has now created over 40 fragrances for LVMH, which naturally makes me wonder how much attention and care is given to each new release and whether his own creativity suffers from the "piecework"!

Not to forget: We are talking here about perfumes which, according to the manufacturer, cost a hefty 280 euros per 100 ml, which in most cases seems completely inappropriate. In addition to "L'Immensité | Louis Vuitton", there may be dozens of other fragrances which, in my opinion, do not achieve the quality one should expect in terms of price/quality. Let's stay with the freshies from Vuitton. "L'Immensité | Louis Vuitton" doesn't even come close to the sparkling elegance of "Imagination | Louis Vuitton" or the citrusy warmth of "Afternoon Swim | Louis Vuitton". On the contrary: for me, there are clearly perceptible bathroom cleaner vibes here. That may sound a little worse than it is, as cleaning products are also supposed to smell at least pleasant, but I can't get this association out of my nose.

What's more, the longevity and sillage are not particularly pronounced. Even without negative associations (as in my case), "L'Immensité | Louis Vuitton" is a rather generic fragrance that does a solid job of refreshing, but no better than a number of EDTs that are available for a tenth (!) of the price.

Yes, yes, it's one of those things with oud. Personally, I only like the more than hyped eaglewood semi, but in the right combination it has something. This is the right combination! :-) I like a lot of Acqua di Parma fragrances. You should definitely own one or two of the "Blu Mediterraneo" series. Even the flacons suggest a maximum of naturalness (I don't know if that's true), but in any case they are not oriented towards the broad masses or the acclaimed niche. Presumably, "Oud (Eau de Parfum) | Acqua di Parma" would have included the rose that is otherwise almost always used with oud in this creation.

Given the large number of oud fragrances, it is by no means a given that the one that gives the fragrance its name is also the heart note, but in this case it is unmistakable. That's already a plus point. The oud, which is clearly perceptible from the outset, is surrounded by citrusy-herbal nuances and a tart-woody base. All of this together results in a truly original fragrance character that I have never smelled in this form before. In any case, unlike many other oud fragrances, I don't associate it with any kind of furniture polish.

"Oud (Eau de Parfum) | Acqua di Parma" skillfully combines elegant seriousness with a hint of desert adventure, as if James Bond were chasing over sand dunes in the Sahara in his own wardrobe in a jeep. There are certainly worse scenarios that can be associated with a fragrance, especially as I can wear it at any time of year. Longevity and sillage are excellent with a fairly linear progression.